Wednesday, 4 September 2013
Adorable Great Dane Puppies - $300 (Powder Springs)
Beautiful CKC Small Maltese/Shih Tzu Female 8 wks old - $450 (Lawrenceville)
Beautiful CKC Small Shih Tzu Male 8 wks old - $450 (Lawrenceville)
CKC Shih-tzu Female - $375 (Buford)
Re-homing or looking for a Pet? Follow our tips! Why list CKC Shih-tzu Female on eBay Classifieds? It's Free, Friendly & LocalCKC SHih-Tzu Male - $375 (Buford)
Re-homing or looking for a Pet? Follow our tips! Why list CKC SHih-Tzu Male on eBay Classifieds? It's Free, Friendly & LocalEnglish Bulldog - Please Contact (Atlanta)
Re-homing or looking for a Pet? Follow our tips! Why list English Bulldog on eBay Classifieds? It's Free, Friendly & LocalLARGE BIRD CAGE~NICE CONDTION~LOW PRICE! - $150 (Buchanan)
Re-homing or looking for a Pet? Follow our tips! Why list LARGE BIRD CAGE~NICE CONDTION~LOW PRICE! on eBay Classifieds? It's Free, Friendly & LocalRagdoll kitten for sale PURRLINE! - $500 (Cumming)
Noel Gallagher On Oasis Comeback And Confirms Second Album Is In The Works
Noel Gallagher Put Off Writing Songs When Succesfull By Going Drinking
Noel Gallagher Reveals How He Penned His Songs
Noel Gallagher Writes For The 'Average Man'
Noel Gallagher's Brilliant Mario Balotelli Story
Noel Gallagher's Regrets Over Oasis' Be Here Now
On This Day In Oasis History...
On This Day In Oasis History...
On This Day In Oasis History...
On This Day In Oasis History...
On This Day In Oasis History...
On This Day In Oasis History...
On This Day In Oasis History...
On This Day In Oasis History...
Steve Angello Felt Bad For Beady Eye
Update On Gem Archer
Watch Beady Eye At Ibiza Rocks This Weekend On MTV
Thursday, 29 August 2013
A sex scandal to beat Profumo: It's hard to keep up with this story of Swedish corruption, but you'll be glad you did
By Chris Tookey
PUBLISHED: 16:15 EST, 15 August 2013 | UPDATED: 16:40 EST, 15 August 2013
Call Girl (18)
Verdict: Good, but hard to track down
You’ll be hard-pressed to find this Swedish film in your local cinema, but it’s the only ambitious, high-quality release of the week.
This tremendous debut by Mikael Marcimain tells the true story of a 1976 sex scandal that threatened the Swedish political system.
One to watch: Call Girl is the most worthwhile film released this week. It makes an audience work, but in all the right waysIt’s like Britain’s Profumo affair but much sleazier and with more to say about the corruption of ideals.
The Swedish government was a Social Democrat one, and the film has a beady eye for the Left-wing cant that accompanied the underhand actions.
There are even interesting echoes of the Blair era and of the recent Jimmy Savile and Catholic Church allegations.
But even at 140 minutes, the film seems rushed, and might have been better as a mini-series.
Intrigue: Sofia Karemyr (right) gives an engaging performance in this tale of political corruptionThe decision to tell the tale from two points of view — a seemingly tough 15-year-old girl (Sofia Karemyr) who is recruited as a prostitute, and an honest cop (Simon J. Berger) who uncovers the truth — is hard to follow at first.
But it comes good in the final hour as the pair become aware of each other’s existence.
The air of menace becomes palpable, and the film is a reminder of a kind of paranoid thriller that is not being made today.
During the recession, a frightened film industry has dumbed itself down. Call Girl bucks that trend.
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Absolutely Adorable Shi Poo Puppies-Real Live Teddy Bears !!! - $275 (Atlanta)

Spam / DuplicatesProhibited / FraudMiscategorized
Important Safety Tips:Please take care when buying and selling animals. To avoid buying a sick pet or dealing with unscrupulous pet dealers, be sure to meet any animal and owner in person. Do not buy unless you can ensure that the animals are kept in sanitary and humane conditions. Learn more about responsible pet acquisition, ownership and adoption. eBay Classifieds does not offer any transaction or payment services. Stay safe - read our safety tips. Price:$275Address:Atlanta, GA 30303 (map) Date Posted:08/27/13Age:BabyGender:FemaleBreed:Shih Tzu/Poodle mixOffered by:OwnerDescription:I have three absolutely adorable Shi Poo Puppies. 2 Female and 1 male. They have dewormed twice and also vaccinated. They are healthy, loving and the sweetest dispositions. Please make sure that you are ready to take on the responsibility of owning a new puppy and all that it entails, such as, time, training, patience, love, and vet care. They have been raised indoors, and well socialized with adults, children, and other animals. They should be under 10 lbs. when fully grown. They are ready for their new owners and new loving homes. A fee of 275 applies. You may text or call me on my cell at 954-210-2469 I am on the road a lot so please leave your contact information so I may call you back or you text me Thanks Kenny
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Adorable CKC registered Yorkies ready for pick up Aug. 30, 2013 - $600 (Calhoun)
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Adorable Female Boxer puppy ready for her new home - 8 weeks old - $600 (Woodstock)
Share: Sorry, I could not read the content fromt this page.
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ADORABLE LAB PUPPIES! - $450 (Dallas)
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Adorable Morkies For Sale - $400 (Dahlonega)
ILL POST MORE PICS VERY SOON
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AKC English Bulldog Available for STUD Services (NOT FOR SALE) - (Winder)
You can bring your female to us and we will do both inseminations or We can meet you at our Vet.
If you have any additional questions Give us a call
(213)249-7047
you can go to our website to see more pictures of Snoopy or some of the puppies sired by him. www.atlbulldogs.com
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AKC English Bulldog Available for Stud(Champion Sired Great Ped)Proven - (Winder)
take a look at the pedigree. best pedigree in georgia
big head Big Bone low to the ground
for more information and pictures of past litters you may visit www.atlbulldogs.com please call me or e-mail me at anytime with any questions
we live in winder, ga 30680
stud fee $500.
(2) artificial inseminations included in stud fee
you can leave your female here while we breed her
(213) 249 7047
Hablamos Espanol
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AKC GERMAN SHEPHERD PUPS POLICE STOCK - $900 (Griffin)
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AKC Great Pyrenees available for Stud Service - (Winder)
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Akc Yorkshire Terriers - $550 (Winder)
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American Bulldog Puppies - $300 (Griffin)
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American Bully Puppy for sale - $600 (Acworth)
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AQHA buckskin/dun trail horse - $1,800 (Crawford)
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As Westlife's lead singer he had all the trappings of fame, then Shane Filan lost the lot. Here, he tells of his dizzying fall
By Spencer Bright
PUBLISHED: 19:01 EST, 8 August 2013 | UPDATED: 13:14 EST, 9 August 2013
Shane Filan is looking a bit dazed. He’s not quite as fresh-faced as he used to be nor as wide-eyed in that I-can’t-believe-my-luck way he had as the lead singer of Westlife. Too much has happened in between.
Last year, as a result of losing his property investments in Ireland’s economic crash, he was declared bankrupt to the tune of an eye-watering ?18?million.
The date of one of the most painful moments in that traumatic time is seared on his heart, January 11, 2013, when he handed over the keys to the family home near Sligo in the West of Ireland. He had designed the house himself and built it in 2004 for a reputed ?3.5?million.
Shane Filan and wife Gillian - they were teenage sweethearts and she has been his greatest supporter through all thisThe mansion — dubbed Westfork by locals — with its sweeping staircase, five bedrooms, six bathrooms, bar and entertainment lounge set in five acres now echoes with the ghosts of the life that once inhabited it and is on the market for a knock-down ?825,000.
‘I built it, I designed it, I’d lived in it for nearly ten years,’ a sombre Shane tells me, speaking for the first time about the traumatic events.
‘The children [Nicole, eight, Patrick, five, and Shane, three] came home to it from the hospital after they were born. There were a lot of memories. I had been very proud of it, so that was like a knife through the heart. But it’s only bricks and mortar, so you’ve just got to let it go.’
His wife Gillian - they were teenage sweethearts - has been his greatest supporter through all this.
‘She was amazing, just keeping me focused. Maybe I would have got depressed without her, but she just kept me positive.
‘She said: “Look, you’ve got your voice and that’s our way forward to earn your livelihood. We have the children. What if one of them was sick? Which would you prefer, that or not having any money?”
‘When your child is looking up at you and you are putting them to bed at night and they are just lying there, you have to remind yourself that’s what it’s all about.’
As part of the bankruptcy proceedings, everything he owned over the value of ?500 had to be declared and surrendered to the Insolvency Service — even his platinum and diamond wedding ring, which was valued at ?33,000. He has since bought it back.
‘I didn’t want them to sell off my wedding ring. It’s not a nice thing to do to buy your wedding ring twice,’ he says. ‘I’d rather not say how much I paid to get it back. It’s personal between me and Gillian.’
Lost: Shane Filan's home at Carraroe, Sligo, dubbed Westfork by locals - with its sweeping staircase, five bedrooms, six bathrooms, bar and entertainment lounge set in five acres When he was declared bankrupt in June 2012, it was revealed he had just over ?100 in cash and ?5,500 in the bank. It was an astonishing fall from grace.
As a member of Westlife, managed by Louis Walsh, Shane was believed to have had a fortune of more than ?8?million accumulated from a 15-year career. They were the biggest-selling album group of the Noughties, with six Number One albums, 14 Number One singles and 44 million records sold around the world.
He WAS 18 when he auditioned for the band. He’s 34 now and admits that in the good times he indulged in young men’s fancies, from Ferraris and Porsches to a four-seater helicopter.
He invested in a few apartments and as the Irish economy boomed he and his brother Finbarr, who is 11 years older, began buying greenfield sites to build homes, offices, a nursing home and a creche, unknowingly sowing the seeds of his financial destruction.
Shane’s problems began in 2004 when Brian McFadden suddenly quit the group. It was thought for a while that the remaining members — Shane, Nicky Byrne, Kian Egan and Mark Feehily — would split up, but they went on to have six more albums and two more Number Ones.
Westlife remained together until June last year, but Shane hadn’t expected the band to last as long and wanted to secure his millions rather than just leave them in the bank.
‘When I got into property, I had just had a baby, Nicole. I genuinely wanted to invest in the future in case Westlife did fall apart, because no one knew how we were going to last after Brian went. Everyone, including us, thought maybe we had a couple of years.’
Instead, they went on to even more to success.
For the last time: Boyband Westlife performing live (Shane is standing 2nd from left)In the meantime, Shane had got caught up in the Irish property boom, spurred on by easy loans and low interest rates. ‘People may think I was being greedy, but I’d have to disagree.’ says Shane. ‘My attitude wasn’t: “Right, let’s make loads of money and get the hell out of here.'
‘I was investing in a place I care about with projects I thought would benefit people. Of course, if you make an investment you want to make a profit. That’s just common sense. It’s not greed trying to make a living, which is what I was trying to do.
‘We had been looking at a couple of nursing home sites because there was a shortage of beds in the West of Ireland. We were encouraged by the council planners who were loving the idea. Every adviser said we were going after exactly the right stuff.
‘In the beginning, it was all very simple. A phone call to a bank, a quick meeting and you get two million to buy a field. I put in half a million and would get the rest off the banks. But then it would take years to get all the planning permission.’
And then came the credit crunch of 2007/8 and the banks were not only not lending any more, they wanted their money back. By then the value of the land had plummeted.
One site alone, near his home in Carraroe, Co. Sligo, shows how he over-extended himself. Shane planned to build a community centre, offices, a private clinic, gym, creche and 68 homes.
One of the banks told him he didn’t have the money to build them and that they didn’t have the money either.
‘So where does that leave me?’ he asked. One of them said: ‘You can sing, can’t you?’
Shane adds: ‘I didn’t think that was part of the deal, but technically, legally, fair enough, I had personally guaranteed it.’ The finances started spinning out of control. In 2009, Shane and Finbarr’s company Shafin Developments Ltd lost ?2.4?million. The following year, it lost ?2.6?million.
‘The couple of years before I was declared bankrupt were the roughest. The bank letters, the pressure, the stress was awful.
‘You’re in this twilight zone of not knowing where your life is going and yet you’re in Westlife. Everything was great with the band. I was earning money and it looked good.
Moving on: Shane starts again as a solo artist with his debut single Everything To Me‘But then at the same time you’re giving it back to the bank. You’re paying out crazy money, up to ?70,000 a month on interest payments. It wasn’t even as if I was paying off the loans. It was not fixing any problems. They were getting their tick on the box for that month and calling for the next.
‘A lot of people go through it whether it’s a credit card debt or it’s 60 grand a month. It’s not a nice way to live.’
It didn’t help that Shane kept the crisis to himself, telling neither the band nor their manager Louis Walsh.
‘I didn’t want them to know. I am a private person. The lads hadn’t a clue. They knew I had some property, but they didn’t know how bad it was.
‘And then they decided we were finishing as a band. I went out of the room thinking: “Oh my God, if they only knew.” ‘That was probably the scariest time of my life. My job was finishing, my financial security was ending and I knew I still had the bills coming in every month.’
Though he knew there was a chance of a record deal in the future, he needed to do something in the meantime.
'That’s when I realised I needed to get the lawyers involved. It was a scary time, especially when your three little children don’t know anything: they just think Daddy’s a superstar.
'But my wife Gillian was brilliant. It would have been a very dark place without her.’ He finally confided in the band in February last year during their farewell tour of China.
'Nicky was saying: "What’s happened to all the stuff you’re building?" I said it was tough, it was a lot of pressure, but I still didn’t say I was on my hands and knees.
‘I thought I’d be able to fix it privately. I’d be able to sit down and make some sort of agreement, but it wasn’t to be.’
A dizzying fall: Shane Filan pictured last month - he has lost everything, even his wedding ringHe finally came clean while they were still in China, and their jaws dropped. 'They said: "You know we’re family." I said yes, of course, I did. There was nothing they could do, but I just wanted them to know.'
When they got back to Dublin, the heads of the six banks he’d been dealing with flew in from London for a crisis meeting. ‘It was pretty intense, but we agreed we were all partly to blame. Then I had to go straight from all that into rehearsals with the band!
‘I was told the worst-case scenario was that I’d end up bankrupt. I thought: "Whoah, well that can’t happen. That’s never going to happen. No way, not a chance." I said it can’t be that bad.’
But it was.
‘When you know the worst that can happen, it’s not as scary,’ says Shane.
‘But the thought of all that getting out into the public domain made me anxious. What if everyone finds out about all this mess, all the papers, everyone? How embarrassing would that be? I made this money and lost it all. What an idiot. You feel all of that.’
Once he accepted the inevitability of bankruptcy, a huge burden was lifted. 'I never got depressed. I got anxious, I got nervous, I got scared. I didn’t know what it was going to be like the next week or how bad it was going to get. Was it going to get worse?’
He had been selling off possessions, including his 1964 Aston Martin DB5, similar to the James Bond classic, which fetched ?348,000 at auction.
‘I knew I was going to lose my house in Ireland and all the other properties. It’s all gone. But my house was the one material thing that was very important to me.
‘I went there for Christmas. It was pretty tough. It took nearly a month to pack up all the possessions, all the memories that were there. It’s a big house and it took quite a while to get out of it. Then you just hand over the keys.
'I was in tears a lot of times. I wrote about that in All You Need To Know, probably my favourite song on my new album. There’s a line: "it takes a teardrop to set you free."
‘In another song I wrote: "When you hit the ground there is only one way to go and that is up."'
Clearly the experience provided a rich seam of material for his first venture into song writing. He was surprised to find the lyrics coming easily.
Supportive: Shane and his Westlife bandmates split last year‘There is a feeling of getting things off my chest, but I don’t want to be preachy. Yes, bad things happen, but a lot of these songs are positive.’
Most of them are also inspired by his love for Gillian. He is hoping the solo career he is embarking on - with the release of his first single, Everything To Me, a tribute to her support through the tough times - will help ease the situation and provide for the future.
He says the easy thing would have been to record a solo album that included covers and sounded like Westlife, 'but I definitely didn’t want to do a solo Westlife album'.
He teamed up with different writers and has come up with a more stripped back pop sound and is looking forward to playing smaller venues than the arenas of his Westlife days.
In an industry not noted for loyalty, he has been able to rely on the continued support of Louis Walsh. When he confided his money troubles, he got some blunt advice. 'He told me: "You’ve got no money, but you’ve got your voice. We’re going to fix this."'
And if Louis can make it work for Shane, it will surely be one of the most remarkable comebacks ever.
Everything To Me is released on August 25. The album will be released later in the year._taboola.push({mode: 'autosized-generated-text-under-1r-us', container: 'taboola-below-main-column', placement: 'below-main-column'});_taboola.push({flush:true});DM.BC.videoAdServerUrl = "http://pubads.g.doubleclick.net/gampad/ads?sz=8x8&iu=%2F7023%2Fdm.video%2Fdm_video_tvshowbiz&ciu_szs=&impl=s&gdfp_req=1&env=vp&output=xml_vast2&unviewed_position_start=1&url=[referrer_url]&correlator=[timestamp]";if (window.ArticlePage && MobileUtils.isMobile()) {new ArticlePage();} _cc991.bcp();
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BABY DOLL YORKIES - $800 (Forest Park)
PUPPIES ARE MICRO-CHIPPED AND UP TO DATE ON SHOTS.
THEY HAVE A BEAUTIFUL BABY-DOLL FACE WITH A
RICH COAT OF HAIR.
THE GOLD MALE YORKIE IS FOR SELL AND I HAVE A LITER OF TRADITIONAL YORKIE BABYS JUST BORN - TAKING DEPOSITS ON THEM. PRICE STARTING AT $800 AND UP
POSTED PICTURES OF MY STUD MALES CHARMER 3 1/2 POUNDS , ROLEX 4 POUNDS AND YOGI 3 POUNDS. . AND A FEW OF MY YORKIE FEMALES. JEWELLS, KIZZMIT
TO SEE MORE GO TO MY WEB SITE
.sheilasbabydollyorkies.com
IF INTERESTED PLEASE CALL ME AT 404-966-4393. BE
SURE TO VISIT MY WEB SITE
. sheilasbabydollyorkies.com
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Beautiful and Fun Sasha - Maltese-Shih Tzu - $350 (Powder Springs)
$350.00 - OBO
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Beautiful Basset Hound Puppies - $350 (Toccoa)
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BEAUTIFUL TRI-COLORED AKC REGISTERED BASSET HOUND PUPPIES - $400 (Lula)
*****CANNOT GET PHOTOS TO UPLOAD, IF INTERESTED I WILL SEND PICS VIA EMAIL*****
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Belgian Malinois Puppies - $500 (Locust Grove)
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Bengal Kittens - Please Contact (Atlanta)


Important Safety Tips:Please take care when buying and selling animals. To avoid buying a sick pet or dealing with unscrupulous pet dealers, be sure to meet any animal and owner in person. Do not buy unless you can ensure that the animals are kept in sanitary and humane conditions. Learn more about responsible pet acquisition, ownership and adoption. eBay Classifieds does not offer any transaction or payment services. Stay safe - read our safety tips. Price:Please ContactAddress:Atlanta, GA 30301 (map) Date Posted:08/28/13Age:BabyGender:FemaleOffered by:BreederDescription:I have 4 female Bengal kittens available, and they will be ready for their new homes in just a couple weeks! 2 Brown Rosetted, 1 Brown Marble, 1 Lynx (Snow) Marble
They will come vaccinated, dewormed, TICA registered, and with a health guarantee. All kittens are sweet and sociable!
Please feel free to check out my website - www.wildwoodsbengals.com
We are located in Clarksville, TN. We can ship or meet halfway for a fee.
We also have litters due in September and October. Expecting browns, silvers, and snows (both spotted and marbled).
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Birds for sale! - Please Contact (Rome)
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BUBBLES, BEAUTIFUL PARTI POM REDUCED - $450 (Dahlonega)
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DOGLOO EXL - $95 (Dacula)
PERFECT FOR LARGE DOGS, GOATS ECT,
CONTACT MARTINA @ 770-846-5756
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FREE KITTENS - Free (Griffin)
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German Shepherd Puppies - $600 (Hampton)
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Good Rascal Dog Training - (Kennesaw)
Licensed, Bonded, and Insured.
Contact our Trainer, Gary Merullo, to set up a Consultation.
Phone: 770-401-7945
Email: [email removed]
For details, see our Website: http://www.mygoodrascal.com
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maltease mix w/shih tzu - $200 (Marietta)
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Pet Portraits - Please Contact (Woodstock)
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Pet/Property/People-sitting Service - (Cumming)
Fur, feather or scales. Warm or cold-blooded. Mammal or amphibian.
No number/breed/species or any combination, too large or small.
Your guidelines strictly followed.
Provide daily updates in your absence.
Credible, reliable, mature.
Open to overnights & extended assignments.
Legitimate references provided.
contact 404-242-0697 for further info/rates
Cumming & all surrounding areas considered.
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REDUCED Female Parti POM - $450 (Dahlonega)
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Reliable, responsible pet sitter and dog walker - (Douglasville)
I also sell the freshest human grade pet food there is at www.dianeshealthypets.com
I have many, many stellar references.
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SWEET ECLECTUC FEMALE - $1,500 (Atlanta)
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WANTED- A CKC REG.YOUNG ADULT FEMALE BOSTON TERRIER. - Please Contact (Toccoa)
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YORKIE BABY BOY! - $575 (Mcdonough)
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By: Flight . A New Art And Photography Gallery By Wingsdomain « Wingsdomain Directory

By Wing Tong
© All Contents Copyright
www.wingsdomain.com
Facebook Fanclub
Fine Gliclee Prints from FineArtAmerica.com
Posters and Tshirts from Zazzle.com
* If you like any of the photos on this blog or if you want to see more of this type of blogs, pick on the image to purchase a Fine Giclee Print which will contribute to future blogs like this. Additional Birds in Flight photos can be found here. Thank you.
Seeing a bird of prey soaring freely in the open sky, swooping down to snatch its prey is a sight of beauty and elegance and I feel privileged everytime to have witnessed it. Capturing this moment in time and being able to share it with viewers is truly a pleasure.
A number of viewers have asked about how the Birds In Flight (BIF) photography was done and though there are many experts in the field out there with varying techniques, here is my personal experience. If nothing else, three basic things, good equipment, alot of practice, and a bit of luck. Sounds simple and it is once you get the hang of it. This Blog will be broken down into a number of topics including “Equipment”, “Camera Settings”, “Technique”, “Post Processing”, and anything else I can think of as I write so come back often.
1. EQUIPMENT
For equipment, I shoot with a Canon 40D which is a 1.6x crop camera. The 1.6x crop is helpful in giving you a photographic result of longer reach relative to any given lens you are using. Note the longer reach result is somewhat technically debatable but for the sake of this writing, let’s just agree this is what we get out of the 1.6x crop cameras. I’ve had the 40D for a little over a year now and since then, there’s been the higher resolution model of the 50D and as of this writing, many photographers are awaiting the 60D model (update 2009-0901, Canon just announced today the availability of the Canon 7D which some speculate is the replacement for the 60D with a different nomenclature, or it may be a completely new species!). As important as camera bodies are, this kinda tells you how disposable they are as well. You can also use Canon’s Rebel line of cameras which is also a 1.6x crop camera but without some of the niceties of the xxD models. A number of wildlife shooters will use the 1D series which comes in a 1.3x crop factor but has a much better everything especially in the Auto-Focus category. There’s also the 1Ds series which is a full-frame (1.0x) camera along with the 5D, also a full-frame, that sits somewhere between the xxD models and the1D/1Ds models. Of course there are other capable brand names out there like Nikon but I don’t own any of those so we won’t get into that. That’s about as much as I want to say about camera bodies.
A good lens is about as good an investment as you will ever have in photography. In BIF and wildlife photography in general, the longer the better, well most of the time (we will touch upon this “most of the time” statement various times later in this writing). Canon offers a solid line of long lenses to choose from and a solid pricing scheme to match! Minimum requirement of a 300mm f/4L IS will run you about $1,250, and the 800mm f/5.6L has a pricetag of $12,500. Then there is the exotic 1200mm f/5.6 which is NOT very realistic for BIF, weighing just over 36 pounds and costing a whopping $120,000! And that’s a used price! This one would fall in that category of “(the longer the better) most of the time” statement I made earlier. …but I digress. OK, so some of you will chime in and say I can shoot BIF with my Canon 70-200L or 70-300IS and so forth. Very true but believe you me, you will enjoy shooting BIF much more with a longer more capable lens. So what lens do I shoot with? The 400mm f/5.6L. A lens used by many BIF shooters which has many advantages and some disadvantages. But why not the 500mm f/4L or the 600mm f/4L or the 800mm f/5.6L? Well, for one thing, I don’t have that kind of cash to spare.
The 400mm f/5.6L runs about $1,300 but as with most good lenses, you can save 10-20% by buying used. Most of Canon’s long lenses are labeled “L” not for long but to designate their professional grade lenses and is distinquishable by the red ring around the end of the lens (as of this writing, I think the 400mm f/4 DO IS is the only long lens that doesn’t carry the “L” moniker). These lenses tend to be relatively indestructable (knock on wood, as soon as I say this, my lens will surely fall apart!) so buying used is not a bad idea as long as you find a reputable dealer. KEH.com tends to be pretty good. The advantages of the 400mm f/5.6L are many. It’s relatively inexpensive, it’s relatively light weight at 2.8 pounds, it’s relatively compact at 10.1? length and 3.5? diameter, it gives you 400mm of native reach, and it has a built-in lens hood. The downside is, well, it’s “only” 400mm reach, the aperture opens up only to f/5.6, and it has no Image Stabilizer (IS). My personal experience with this lens is that it makes for a very good walkaround wildlife/BIF lens because of its lightweightedness and for BIF, the IS has little effect (I know, this is also a subject of discussion but we won’t discuss it here
). For most BIF photography, I am shooting in good outdoor light so f/5.6 does not come into play that often. Only when the bird flies into a darken area is when the lens/camera pushes the limits of required shutter speeds. But then again, today’s cameras offer very good high ISO performance and I find myself shooting at ISO800 very often without worry. I sometimes even push ISO1600 but at that high ISO, I tend to do a bit more post processing. A tripod is a good idea especially for those even longer and heavier lenses but I haven’t needed to use one yet since a tripod or even a monopod will restrict your movements to a certain degree and when I shoot BIF, I tend to be everywhere.
…next up, CAMERA SETTINGS

2009-0829
2. CAMERA SETTINGS
All dSLR’s today will have 3 light metering mode (shutterspeed/aperture combinations) similar to Canon’s Av, Tv, and Manual modes. Av allows the photographer to control the aperture opening and having the shutter speed automatically set by the camera based on the available light meter reading by the camera. On the other hand, Tv allows you to set the shutter speed and allow the camera to set the aperture. Then there is the Full Manual mode which allows you the photographer to control and set both the Aperture and Shutter speed. Toss in an ISO setting which controls the sensitivity of the camera’s sensors to light and you have a well refined tool to capture and expose a balanced amount of light onto your final photo. Sounds simple enough and it really is but the amount of light in any given BIF situation can change dramatically unlike studio photography where most light is artificial and well controlled by the photographer.
So what camera settings are optimal for BIF photography? There are as many schools of thoughts on this matter as there are metering modes on the camera to set, and many will use a combination for varying situations. For me, I started using Av and then gradually moved onto Tv. Some would argue this to be a step backward, but my argument is that by using Tv mode, I control the shutter speed to match the required shutter speed of BIF. If there isn’t enough light, the worst that can happen is my photos are underexposed and to a certain degree, this can be corrected in Post Processing. Whereas if I was to use Av mode which allows me to control depth of field among other things, the worst that can happen is the shutter speeds get too low and I get a blurred photo. Well, I can’t readily correct a blurred photo in post processing as I can with an underexposed photo. But even with underexposed photos, I am talking only about up to 1 stop of light, thereafter, even the best post processing techniques would have a difficult chance of saving the photo. For ISO, I am very confident in using up to ISO800, anything higher and I would hesitate but if you must get the shot and you don’t have enough light, then by all means, use as much ISO as you need. The downside of high ISO settings is of course with the sensor’s higher sensitivity to light comes a higher sensitivity to anomalies that show up in the photo as noise or grains of odd colors. To some degree, this noise can be corrected in post processing but at the same time, noise correction results in some level of image detail degradation (I know there’s also been arguments here but that’s for another blog
). For BIF photography, using my 40D+400mm combo, I need a minimum of 1/1,250th of a second shutter speed. I oftentimes try to get as high as 1/1,600th of a second. Those with ice in their veins can get away with down to 1/800th of a second but I bleed red blood so I know my limitations. So to sum up so far, I use Tv mode, confidently use up to ISO800, and set my shutter speed anywhere from 1/1,250th to 1/1,600th of a second.
There are three other very important settings on the camera for BIF photography, namely the Focusing modes, the shutter burst modes, and the selection of AF points. For BIF photography, set your focusing mode to AI Servo. That’ll allow the camera to continuously and automatically update the focus as you move your camera tracking the moving bird (assuming you have the moving bird locked on target). So a camera with a good AI Servo engine and reliable Auto Focus along with a fast focusing lens is essential for BIF photography. The 40D’s AI Servo capabilities are sufficient but Canon’s 1D series shine in this category as it does in most other categories. I also set my shutter to Multiple high speed shots. Multiple shots allow you to shoot an action sequence but it also allows you to shoot a series of photos of the same situation so that you have the option to choose the shot you like best later. Some have suggested that multiple shutter bursts also limits the effects of camera shakes, this may be true, at the very least, it gives you more chances of getting that perfect shot. The 40D again does decent with up to 6.5 fps and a buffer of up to 17 RAW files. Typically, I shoot about 2-3 bursts at a time unless I want to shoot an action sequence, then I shoot as many as the buffer will hold. Note the reason I shoot 2-3 bursts for non-action sequences is to conserve the camera’s buffer. I tend to shoot those 2-3 bursts and then find I need to shoot 2-3 more bursts a couple seconds later and then again and again – you get the picture. You never want to use up your camera’s buffer unnecessarily because as soon as you do, Murphy’s Law requires that the perfect photo opportunity will appear and there is no worst feeling for a photographer to be waiting for your buffer to clear in this situation! Finally, for AF points, I select the center point only as this is normally the strongest AF point and the center makes finding your target in the viewfinder much easier.
…perhaps one more setting to identify. I shoot in RAW format. This allows me to fine-tune the photo in Post Processing using the originally captured data from the camera. If I was to shoot in JPG format, the camera would have already processed the photo, the original data would have been compromised, and my post processing workflow would not have a reliable starting point from the JPG file. So shoot RAW!
With the discussion on shutter bursts, I guess I’ve gotten ahead of myself and gotten a little into the next topic which is “Technique”, next up “TECHNIQUE”…..

2009-0902
3. TECHNIQUE
The most fundamental basis of technique for any given subject is to practice practice practice! Ask questions, then practice practice practice again! …and again! With this in mind, there are many varying techniques for BIF photography and I too am constantly learning, practicing, and asking questions. So far, my accumulated techniques are pretty simple and adhere to what I have found that works for me so this is by no means a means to an end but a starting point.
Start by making sure your camera is properly set up. Since I don’t use a tripod on my relatively light Canon 40D+400mm f/5.6 equipment, I hand-hold the camera which offers me the freedom to hike around and react quickly to a bird that may come out of the corner of my eye – and I am always looking for wildlife every which way including behind me (by turning around of course, I don’t have eyes behind my back…as of this writing!
). I am right-handed so I hold the camera with my right hand pretty much in a normal fashion, and with my left hand I hold and support the long lens. When I see a bird coming into view, I quickly raise the camera+lens and start searching for the bird in the viewfinder. Since I keep the tripod collar on the lens, it offers me a nice flat surface to rest the lens onto my left hand palm, keeping my fingers extended and supporting the far end of the lens. Basically try to get a comfortable and balanced position. Finding the bird in your viewfinder is actually more difficult than it sounds especially if the bird is really close which is usually where you want the bird to be, but for beginners, maybe practice finding more distant birds as the view through your viewfinder will cover much more ground which makes it easier to find the bird. Once you’ve located the bird in your viewfinder, press the shutter button halfway and the camera’s Autofocus (AF) will try to lock onto an AF point where you are aiming the camera. But since you, your camera, and the bird are all moving at the same time, the AF might lock onto something else especially if you have a busy background. If this happens, quickly release the shutter button, find the bird again, and try pressing the shutter button halfway again to lock onto your target. If you are successful, there are two basic ways to continue the AF tracking. The obvious way is to keep the shutter button suppressed halfway and continue following and keeping your focus point on the bird and then pressing the shutter button all the way to take the picture when you find the composition appropriate. The other way, and this is my preferred method, is to release the shutter button but continue following the bird in the view finder with the focus point on the bird. Press the shutter button halfway a few times as you follow/track the bird to keep the bird in focus. When the bird gets close enough to the composition you are looking for, press the shutter button halfway again to lock focus but this time keep it suppressed halfway as long as you need, then continue to press the shutter button all the way to take the picture. This pressing and releasing of the shutter button as you track the bird in flight helps in reducing the chances of losing the AF lock to something in the background. Now since your camera is set to shoot multiple bursts, keeping the shutter button all the way down while continuing to track the bird will result in multiple shots until either you release the shutter button or your camera’s buffer fills up. As I eluded to earlier, I tend to shoot in bursts of 2-3 then releasing the shutter button back to its halfway point, continue tracking the bird, and when another nice composition appears, I again shoot another 2-3 bursts. Repeat until the bird is out of range. Oh, by the way, all this happens in about a few seconds window.
A few perhaps debatable tips…
- Before a bird even comes into sight, prime your AF to a point close to where your birds will be coming from by pointing at something in that area and pressing the shutter button halfway then releasing it. This will allow you to have a pretty close focal area when the birds do arrive instead of a big blur!
- When I track a bird in my viewfinder, the prescribed focal point on the bird is the eye but since the eye is such a small target, I don’t worry too much about focusing exactly on the eye. Instead, since the eye is in a fairly close focal plane as the face and body while the bird crosses perpendicularly to my sight of view, I’m ok with focusing on the head/body at this angle. When the bird is coming towards my perpendicular view, the body is a bit askew but the head still offers a pretty close focal plane to the eye of the bird. As the bird flies away from my perpendicular view and if I wanted that angle for my shot (which I seldom do since it is not a very pleasing angle), I try to again focus on the head.
- For beginners and for practice, find a nice slow flying plentiful bird species like seagulls which are in vast numbers in my neck of the woods, and try to shoot them as much as you can. When I first started shooting BIF, I shot probably a few hundred seagulls everytime I went out shooting. Shoot anything that moves too! That’s one of the beauties of modern day Dslr’s, you can shoot as many shots as you like and it costs virtually nothing (except for the count against your camera’s shutter life which tends to be anywhere from 50K to 300K depending on your camera).
That’s it for Techniques for now. If I think of anything else, I will update this post. …next up, POST PROCESSING.

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View the original article here
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By: Flowers Art and Photography Gallery - Flowers Art and Photography Gallery

By Wing Tong
© All Contents Copyright
www.wingsdomain.com
Facebook Fanclub
Fine Gliclee Prints from FineArtAmerica.com
Posters and Tshirts from Zazzle.com
* If you like any of the photos on this blog or if you want to see more of this type of blogs, pick on the image to purchase a Fine Giclee Print which will contribute to future blogs like this. Additional Birds in Flight photos can be found here. Thank you.
Seeing a bird of prey soaring freely in the open sky, swooping down to snatch its prey is a sight of beauty and elegance and I feel privileged everytime to have witnessed it. Capturing this moment in time and being able to share it with viewers is truly a pleasure.
A number of viewers have asked about how the Birds In Flight (BIF) photography was done and though there are many experts in the field out there with varying techniques, here is my personal experience. If nothing else, three basic things, good equipment, alot of practice, and a bit of luck. Sounds simple and it is once you get the hang of it. This Blog will be broken down into a number of topics including “Equipment”, “Camera Settings”, “Technique”, “Post Processing”, and anything else I can think of as I write so come back often.
1. EQUIPMENT
For equipment, I shoot with a Canon 40D which is a 1.6x crop camera. The 1.6x crop is helpful in giving you a photographic result of longer reach relative to any given lens you are using. Note the longer reach result is somewhat technically debatable but for the sake of this writing, let’s just agree this is what we get out of the 1.6x crop cameras. I’ve had the 40D for a little over a year now and since then, there’s been the higher resolution model of the 50D and as of this writing, many photographers are awaiting the 60D model (update 2009-0901, Canon just announced today the availability of the Canon 7D which some speculate is the replacement for the 60D with a different nomenclature, or it may be a completely new species!). As important as camera bodies are, this kinda tells you how disposable they are as well. You can also use Canon’s Rebel line of cameras which is also a 1.6x crop camera but without some of the niceties of the xxD models. A number of wildlife shooters will use the 1D series which comes in a 1.3x crop factor but has a much better everything especially in the Auto-Focus category. There’s also the 1Ds series which is a full-frame (1.0x) camera along with the 5D, also a full-frame, that sits somewhere between the xxD models and the1D/1Ds models. Of course there are other capable brand names out there like Nikon but I don’t own any of those so we won’t get into that. That’s about as much as I want to say about camera bodies.
A good lens is about as good an investment as you will ever have in photography. In BIF and wildlife photography in general, the longer the better, well most of the time (we will touch upon this “most of the time” statement various times later in this writing). Canon offers a solid line of long lenses to choose from and a solid pricing scheme to match! Minimum requirement of a 300mm f/4L IS will run you about $1,250, and the 800mm f/5.6L has a pricetag of $12,500. Then there is the exotic 1200mm f/5.6 which is NOT very realistic for BIF, weighing just over 36 pounds and costing a whopping $120,000! And that’s a used price! This one would fall in that category of “(the longer the better) most of the time” statement I made earlier. …but I digress. OK, so some of you will chime in and say I can shoot BIF with my Canon 70-200L or 70-300IS and so forth. Very true but believe you me, you will enjoy shooting BIF much more with a longer more capable lens. So what lens do I shoot with? The 400mm f/5.6L. A lens used by many BIF shooters which has many advantages and some disadvantages. But why not the 500mm f/4L or the 600mm f/4L or the 800mm f/5.6L? Well, for one thing, I don’t have that kind of cash to spare.
The 400mm f/5.6L runs about $1,300 but as with most good lenses, you can save 10-20% by buying used. Most of Canon’s long lenses are labeled “L” not for long but to designate their professional grade lenses and is distinquishable by the red ring around the end of the lens (as of this writing, I think the 400mm f/4 DO IS is the only long lens that doesn’t carry the “L” moniker). These lenses tend to be relatively indestructable (knock on wood, as soon as I say this, my lens will surely fall apart!) so buying used is not a bad idea as long as you find a reputable dealer. KEH.com tends to be pretty good. The advantages of the 400mm f/5.6L are many. It’s relatively inexpensive, it’s relatively light weight at 2.8 pounds, it’s relatively compact at 10.1? length and 3.5? diameter, it gives you 400mm of native reach, and it has a built-in lens hood. The downside is, well, it’s “only” 400mm reach, the aperture opens up only to f/5.6, and it has no Image Stabilizer (IS). My personal experience with this lens is that it makes for a very good walkaround wildlife/BIF lens because of its lightweightedness and for BIF, the IS has little effect (I know, this is also a subject of discussion but we won’t discuss it here
). For most BIF photography, I am shooting in good outdoor light so f/5.6 does not come into play that often. Only when the bird flies into a darken area is when the lens/camera pushes the limits of required shutter speeds. But then again, today’s cameras offer very good high ISO performance and I find myself shooting at ISO800 very often without worry. I sometimes even push ISO1600 but at that high ISO, I tend to do a bit more post processing. A tripod is a good idea especially for those even longer and heavier lenses but I haven’t needed to use one yet since a tripod or even a monopod will restrict your movements to a certain degree and when I shoot BIF, I tend to be everywhere.
…next up, CAMERA SETTINGS

2009-0829
2. CAMERA SETTINGS
All dSLR’s today will have 3 light metering mode (shutterspeed/aperture combinations) similar to Canon’s Av, Tv, and Manual modes. Av allows the photographer to control the aperture opening and having the shutter speed automatically set by the camera based on the available light meter reading by the camera. On the other hand, Tv allows you to set the shutter speed and allow the camera to set the aperture. Then there is the Full Manual mode which allows you the photographer to control and set both the Aperture and Shutter speed. Toss in an ISO setting which controls the sensitivity of the camera’s sensors to light and you have a well refined tool to capture and expose a balanced amount of light onto your final photo. Sounds simple enough and it really is but the amount of light in any given BIF situation can change dramatically unlike studio photography where most light is artificial and well controlled by the photographer.
So what camera settings are optimal for BIF photography? There are as many schools of thoughts on this matter as there are metering modes on the camera to set, and many will use a combination for varying situations. For me, I started using Av and then gradually moved onto Tv. Some would argue this to be a step backward, but my argument is that by using Tv mode, I control the shutter speed to match the required shutter speed of BIF. If there isn’t enough light, the worst that can happen is my photos are underexposed and to a certain degree, this can be corrected in Post Processing. Whereas if I was to use Av mode which allows me to control depth of field among other things, the worst that can happen is the shutter speeds get too low and I get a blurred photo. Well, I can’t readily correct a blurred photo in post processing as I can with an underexposed photo. But even with underexposed photos, I am talking only about up to 1 stop of light, thereafter, even the best post processing techniques would have a difficult chance of saving the photo. For ISO, I am very confident in using up to ISO800, anything higher and I would hesitate but if you must get the shot and you don’t have enough light, then by all means, use as much ISO as you need. The downside of high ISO settings is of course with the sensor’s higher sensitivity to light comes a higher sensitivity to anomalies that show up in the photo as noise or grains of odd colors. To some degree, this noise can be corrected in post processing but at the same time, noise correction results in some level of image detail degradation (I know there’s also been arguments here but that’s for another blog
). For BIF photography, using my 40D+400mm combo, I need a minimum of 1/1,250th of a second shutter speed. I oftentimes try to get as high as 1/1,600th of a second. Those with ice in their veins can get away with down to 1/800th of a second but I bleed red blood so I know my limitations. So to sum up so far, I use Tv mode, confidently use up to ISO800, and set my shutter speed anywhere from 1/1,250th to 1/1,600th of a second.
There are three other very important settings on the camera for BIF photography, namely the Focusing modes, the shutter burst modes, and the selection of AF points. For BIF photography, set your focusing mode to AI Servo. That’ll allow the camera to continuously and automatically update the focus as you move your camera tracking the moving bird (assuming you have the moving bird locked on target). So a camera with a good AI Servo engine and reliable Auto Focus along with a fast focusing lens is essential for BIF photography. The 40D’s AI Servo capabilities are sufficient but Canon’s 1D series shine in this category as it does in most other categories. I also set my shutter to Multiple high speed shots. Multiple shots allow you to shoot an action sequence but it also allows you to shoot a series of photos of the same situation so that you have the option to choose the shot you like best later. Some have suggested that multiple shutter bursts also limits the effects of camera shakes, this may be true, at the very least, it gives you more chances of getting that perfect shot. The 40D again does decent with up to 6.5 fps and a buffer of up to 17 RAW files. Typically, I shoot about 2-3 bursts at a time unless I want to shoot an action sequence, then I shoot as many as the buffer will hold. Note the reason I shoot 2-3 bursts for non-action sequences is to conserve the camera’s buffer. I tend to shoot those 2-3 bursts and then find I need to shoot 2-3 more bursts a couple seconds later and then again and again – you get the picture. You never want to use up your camera’s buffer unnecessarily because as soon as you do, Murphy’s Law requires that the perfect photo opportunity will appear and there is no worst feeling for a photographer to be waiting for your buffer to clear in this situation! Finally, for AF points, I select the center point only as this is normally the strongest AF point and the center makes finding your target in the viewfinder much easier.
…perhaps one more setting to identify. I shoot in RAW format. This allows me to fine-tune the photo in Post Processing using the originally captured data from the camera. If I was to shoot in JPG format, the camera would have already processed the photo, the original data would have been compromised, and my post processing workflow would not have a reliable starting point from the JPG file. So shoot RAW!
With the discussion on shutter bursts, I guess I’ve gotten ahead of myself and gotten a little into the next topic which is “Technique”, next up “TECHNIQUE”…..

2009-0902
3. TECHNIQUE
The most fundamental basis of technique for any given subject is to practice practice practice! Ask questions, then practice practice practice again! …and again! With this in mind, there are many varying techniques for BIF photography and I too am constantly learning, practicing, and asking questions. So far, my accumulated techniques are pretty simple and adhere to what I have found that works for me so this is by no means a means to an end but a starting point.
Start by making sure your camera is properly set up. Since I don’t use a tripod on my relatively light Canon 40D+400mm f/5.6 equipment, I hand-hold the camera which offers me the freedom to hike around and react quickly to a bird that may come out of the corner of my eye – and I am always looking for wildlife every which way including behind me (by turning around of course, I don’t have eyes behind my back…as of this writing!
). I am right-handed so I hold the camera with my right hand pretty much in a normal fashion, and with my left hand I hold and support the long lens. When I see a bird coming into view, I quickly raise the camera+lens and start searching for the bird in the viewfinder. Since I keep the tripod collar on the lens, it offers me a nice flat surface to rest the lens onto my left hand palm, keeping my fingers extended and supporting the far end of the lens. Basically try to get a comfortable and balanced position. Finding the bird in your viewfinder is actually more difficult than it sounds especially if the bird is really close which is usually where you want the bird to be, but for beginners, maybe practice finding more distant birds as the view through your viewfinder will cover much more ground which makes it easier to find the bird. Once you’ve located the bird in your viewfinder, press the shutter button halfway and the camera’s Autofocus (AF) will try to lock onto an AF point where you are aiming the camera. But since you, your camera, and the bird are all moving at the same time, the AF might lock onto something else especially if you have a busy background. If this happens, quickly release the shutter button, find the bird again, and try pressing the shutter button halfway again to lock onto your target. If you are successful, there are two basic ways to continue the AF tracking. The obvious way is to keep the shutter button suppressed halfway and continue following and keeping your focus point on the bird and then pressing the shutter button all the way to take the picture when you find the composition appropriate. The other way, and this is my preferred method, is to release the shutter button but continue following the bird in the view finder with the focus point on the bird. Press the shutter button halfway a few times as you follow/track the bird to keep the bird in focus. When the bird gets close enough to the composition you are looking for, press the shutter button halfway again to lock focus but this time keep it suppressed halfway as long as you need, then continue to press the shutter button all the way to take the picture. This pressing and releasing of the shutter button as you track the bird in flight helps in reducing the chances of losing the AF lock to something in the background. Now since your camera is set to shoot multiple bursts, keeping the shutter button all the way down while continuing to track the bird will result in multiple shots until either you release the shutter button or your camera’s buffer fills up. As I eluded to earlier, I tend to shoot in bursts of 2-3 then releasing the shutter button back to its halfway point, continue tracking the bird, and when another nice composition appears, I again shoot another 2-3 bursts. Repeat until the bird is out of range. Oh, by the way, all this happens in about a few seconds window.
A few perhaps debatable tips…
- Before a bird even comes into sight, prime your AF to a point close to where your birds will be coming from by pointing at something in that area and pressing the shutter button halfway then releasing it. This will allow you to have a pretty close focal area when the birds do arrive instead of a big blur!
- When I track a bird in my viewfinder, the prescribed focal point on the bird is the eye but since the eye is such a small target, I don’t worry too much about focusing exactly on the eye. Instead, since the eye is in a fairly close focal plane as the face and body while the bird crosses perpendicularly to my sight of view, I’m ok with focusing on the head/body at this angle. When the bird is coming towards my perpendicular view, the body is a bit askew but the head still offers a pretty close focal plane to the eye of the bird. As the bird flies away from my perpendicular view and if I wanted that angle for my shot (which I seldom do since it is not a very pleasing angle), I try to again focus on the head.
- For beginners and for practice, find a nice slow flying plentiful bird species like seagulls which are in vast numbers in my neck of the woods, and try to shoot them as much as you can. When I first started shooting BIF, I shot probably a few hundred seagulls everytime I went out shooting. Shoot anything that moves too! That’s one of the beauties of modern day Dslr’s, you can shoot as many shots as you like and it costs virtually nothing (except for the count against your camera’s shutter life which tends to be anywhere from 50K to 300K depending on your camera).
That’s it for Techniques for now. If I think of anything else, I will update this post. …next up, POST PROCESSING.

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